As we were in Hong Kong we continued to Shanghai for the second day of a two-day conference there, arriving at 1 am on Wednesday, and flying home Thursday afternoon. Shanghai Express!
Flying Dragonair from Hong Kong to Pudong Airport in Shanghai, we did not have Kosher food, and were not exactly surprised. However, the air-hostesses gave us fresh fruit and we could enjoy the Haagen Dazs ice cream that all passengers received for their just desserts.
At Shanghai airport we had to queue in the Foreigner line. I’m not foreign, I’m British, I thought imperiously. Like the Cheshire Cat, I decided that either I was foreign or everyone else was. That as may be, unlike Hong Kong where many, many people speak fluent English, Shanghai is very much China. In a two-day whirlwind business trip, my perceptions changed. I realized that there are very many more Chinese than English or Israelis. Most people are Asian. At 5′ 11″, and weighing in at about three times the average Chinese man, I stuck out, if not like a sort of Gulliver in Lilliput, perhaps like a Kenyan Maasai in Jerusalem.
There may be rural parts of China with paddy fields and people in shallow conical hats with pigtails, but Shanghai is nothing like that. Shanghai is vast and ultramodern. I am sure that rural Chinese visiting a metropolis like Shanghai for the first time have a culture shock larger than that of the Kibbutznik visiting Tel Aviv for the first time, but even compared to New York, Shanghai is simply enormous.
We arrived late at night, and I went to an ATM to withdraw some local currency. Without too much resistance, allowed some nice saleswoman to ‘help us’ get to our hotel, by reserving us a hotel limousine. It cost 3 times as much as a taxi would, but there was change from $100, and it was comfortable. This was the first and last time that I was ‘had’ by the locals, who seemed more honest than touristivores in other places I’ve visited. Even the sales lady wasn’t exactly dishonest. The limousine she rented me was indeed a large roomy vehicle. It was worth what we paid for it. A taxi would, simply have been 1/3 of the price.
We got to the hotel in the early hours and went to bed. The following morning, we joined the conference that was the reason for our trip. Unlike INTA, it was clear that Chinese conference goers are interested in learning. The talks were excellent. There was simultaneous translation. Few freebies for the kids though. I didn’t think of requesting that the organizers arrange Kosher food, so I dined on bean sprouts, tomato and lettuce, whilst the other conventioners ate oysters, prawn, barbecued pork ribs, and various other food.
One of the participants was an Israeli Lawyer whose wife worked for the Chabad House, and after the conference, and having over-dosed on pineapple and melon which seem to have opposite effects on my dietary system, we went to the Jewish Center, otherwise known as Chabad House. The steak and chips, and the pita bread both compared favorably with similar food purchased in San Francisco. A very helpful Israeli studying Chinese who worked at the front desk gave some advice about what we could do that evening and the following morning, and despite the fact that we were 36 hours in Shanghai, we managed to get a taste of the city.
Talking of taste, if I had thought of it, I bet I could have ordered Kosher food from Chabad at the conference. As it was, I simply explained to my dining companions that my brother used to be bigger than me, and that by only eating bean sprouts and tomatoes, had lost about 100 Kg. It seemed easier than explaining about Kosher food.
Aharon wore a baseball cap to wonder around the city, thinking that by so doing, he didn’t stand out. He’s a head taller than the average Chinese, and who wears baseball caps except Jews not wanting to stand out?
We went to the Pearl Market where I bought some silky things and a new leather brief case, whilst Aharon purchased a string of pearls for his wife. The prices are good and the produce seems good as well. Despite me coming 30 minutes before the placed closed, some of the sales ladies explained that I was the first visitor of the day and entitled to a special discount. It is clear that they have some English patter but don’t really talk the language.
We went on to visit the Bund, which is a sort of Blackpool on Yangtze. Having seen San Francisco from the sea, and Hong Kong from Kowloon, I am a little blasé about impressive city-scapes. Nevertheless, the pearl tower is attractive. The idea of going to the top gave me vertigo, so we opted to take the tunnel under the river instead. This was an experience that can best be described as Asian Naff. Bubble cars like aquaria go along one track and back along the other, but to pass the time, a range of images are projected onto the tunnel walls and roof. Some sections are lit up with lasers and others with fluorescing wires; the overall effect is a little like a carnival ghost-train that was never meant to thrill. I got a little tired trying to explain to street merchants that I did not want a battery operated laser pointer, but their beams were actually fairly impressive and not expensive. The laser would be useful for physics demonstrations but I think laser light is not an appropriate toy for the kids.
We went on to the pedestrian walkway. Much like the way the six lane trunk roads put Israel into perspective, the pedestrian walkway was a little wider, a lot longer, and more impressive than Ben Yehuda precinct in Jerusalem. Perhaps the best way to describe it would be as a shiny granite-lined Rothschild Boulevard stretching the length of the Ayalon. I found the men siding up to me, offering me a massage by pretty Chinese ladies a little tiresome. It was a little refreshing when someone actually offered sex Chinese ladies. I tried to explain that I didn’t think I could cope with six as I was still jet lagged, and suggested three or four only, but I am not sure he understood me. We sat down to rest our legs, and a smartly dressed lady, asked if she sit nearby. It wasn’t my bench, so I acquiesced. Either she liked foreign men, or was working late. Class act, but not my thing, so we got up and moved on. Even this seedier side of the tourist industry seemed more modern and civilized than South Tel Aviv, but, assuming my wife wouldn’t want transmitted diseases, didn’t explore this side of Shanghai, so went back to the hotel room with my brother.
Coming from Israel, the lack of kids is noticeable and sad. People seemed generally happy though. I wonder if the natives would consider the average Israeli family of 2-3 children primitive, or lucky? We have three kids, which is well below the average of my West Bank village which has an average of 5 kids per family.
It would have been nice to see the Old Synagogue and to tour Jewish Shanghai, seeing the old port where some 20,000 refugees escaped the Holocaust, to one of the few open ports in the world. Unfortunately, there wasn’t time, however. Next time – and hopefully there will be a next time. Hopefully with the wife and kids as well.
The following day, we used a crib card from Chabad to visit the Old Town on the way back to the airport. This was somewhere to take photos that looked picturesque and Chinese as imagined in the West. For about NIS 20 ($6 US) we left the cab on the meter, and told the driver to pick us up 30 minutes later. The driver could have a smoke and we could wander the streets, see some traditional shadow puppets, yet more silk and jade, and go to the famous Yuyuan Gardens.
Fascinating. like every other big city, Shanghai has its China Town, and this was it. Impressive archways, gabled wooden roofs, dragons, Chinese restaurants, and the ubiquitous Starbucks and Mc Donalds of course. Give it a couple more years and all metropolises world-wide will look the same. We spent about 15 minutes in the Yuyuan Chinese gardens, with their pools of carp. In Israel, carp feed us. In China people, feed the carp. Go figure. The gardens deserve 2-3 hours to enjoy the tranquility, but we had a plane to catch.
The plane from Hong Kong to Shanghai was small and cramped. On the way back, we had seats in an Airbus. Pleasantly surprised that our request for Kosher food on the flight from Shanghai to Hong Kong was available, we enjoyed a Kedassia Hermolis meal from Wembley, London, where I used to live 35 years ago. I reckon the meal took about 35 hours to from when it was made to when it reached me. Partly frozen, nevertheless, an enjoyable meal of grilled salmon, rice and spring beans, chocolate cake, etc.
Plenty of leg room and a South China Daily News – which is bigger and more impressive than the Jerusalem Post in a way that Shanghai is bigger and more impressive than Tel Aviv.
In Hong Kong airport, apart from writing this blog article, I had time for a massage, or, to be more accurate, I had a massage to pass the time. Shiatsu on the legs and feet, and then a back massage, fully dressed, in a chair. The massage parlour was a nice, clean, unisex facility. Maybe I misinterpreted the men that came up to me on the pedestrian walkway? Maybe they were offering unisex massages and I simply misinterpreted?
China is a friendly place. There is what to see. I hope to visit China again and to have time to site-see, hopefully to see more than just the cities, but the country side as well.
I’ll be back.